![]() As you lay the first plank you realize that there is going to be a gap between your baseboard and your floor. I have cut off the end of the straw and have got to use the rest of the can, but for the most part, it's a one use can.You are about to install your new flooring. ![]() The can even states, expect only one use. Lastly, if you have left overs, you can close the straw and hope for the best. This is because the flow is much bigger in the beginning and gets less and less over the life of the can. Save easy surface gaps for the end of the can. If you are trying to reach into long spaces, suggest you find some long straws or tubing that you can fix to the straw BEFORE BEGINNING. They do have the new nozzles that let you turn off and on the foam from leaking out the straw in between spraying two or more areas, but remember, this tends to be difficult. Notate all the places you need to foam before you start foaming and prepare ALL the areas before you begin!!!! This is important as once you start, you want to continue until the can is empty. You will make it worse by touching it while wet and easier to remove when cured. If foam drips down while you are spraying - LEAVE IT until it cures. The foam is SUPER STICKY and will not easily come off of ANYTHING! Acetone works a LITTLE (and I mean not much at all - but it is better than nothing). Where eye, glove and clothes protection and protect the areas around where you are spraying. With ALL of these foam types, there is major things to remember. Lastly they have a Multi-Purpose Black foam for indoor or outdoor use good around hardscapes and such (use pond and stone for water features or very wet areas though). This is great around things like spigots on your house that bugs might try to pass from the exterior to the inside of your home. They also have foam that is critter resistant to keep bugs or other pest from penetrating openings called Pest Block. This is great where you have penetrations in firewalls (like the wall between your house and garage for instance). This is important to keep the weight of the house above from pushing into your window or door jambs. They have a window and door foam which stays soft after it cures. I also used this between my flagstones around the pond, using standard foam and big gap underneath the flagstones to cement them in place on the liner OR close up gaps so that water could not travel beneath them.īut this is not all, HD also sells other varieties too. I pressed sand into the fresh foam as well. Lastly, I used the pond form over all the other foams and placed it in places I had to disguise liner. Next I used the standard foam between the rocks and to "cement" the smaller rocks into place or secure the rocks to the liner. ![]() ![]() This would keep the majority of the water from flowing behind the rocks. I filled the large voids behind the rocks. After weeks of arranging rocks up the waterfall course, once satisfied on how the water was flowing, I turned off the waterfall, let the rocks dry then began foaming beginning with big gap filler. Great Stuff Big Gap Filler, Original Gaps and Cracks and Great Stuff Pond and Stone Foam. I recently bought three varieties of Great Stuff for my Pond Project: This expands nearly 5 times the size of the normal foam. However, there are times when you have large voids with lengthy areas to bridge. The original standard foam "Gaps and Cracks" is probably going to be your number one use type. Further, they have a foam for just about every situation. Great Stuff insulating foam has the most reliable and consistent formulas compared to other brands I have tried. ![]()
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